If your horse is not too vicious, you should go into the stall with him. Find out  where he is sensitive. If he doesn’t want to be touched about the ears, work down  about the nose first; as his fear stops, work up about the ears.

Touch them very gently  at first and, as soon as he will stand it, stroke them faster and a little more carelessly;  then lay your right arm over his neck and press down slowly until his nose is nearly to  the ground, all the time keeping his attention with your left hand by stroking his nose  and forehead.

Should the horse be extremely bad, take him out of the stable, catch hold of the tail  with your left hand, and the halter with your right, and whirl him around eight or ten  times.

This will make him so dizzy that he will stand perfectly quiet!

After you are able to put on the bridle without force, repeat several times, holding his  attention by giving him a little corn. He should be bridled very carefully for a few  times.

Bridling a colt is a bit different…Do not attempt to bridle the colt until you have given it the Confidence Lesson.

Take  the bridle, which has neither rein nor hitching strap in the right hand, and start away  from the colt’s left shoulder.

As the colt approaches you, reach out the bridle and say,  “Take Bit.” Make it easy for the colt to take the bit the first few times; remove the bit,  and as soon as it moves its head toward the bridle, caress it, or reward it, by giving it a  little oats, apple or something it likes.

After it reaches out a time or two and takes the  bit, stop working with it for that day.

The next day, take it to the same spot and continue the treatment until it will come to  you at command, “Come Here,” and then at the command, “Take Bit,” it will obey.

Those and many, many more incredibly valuable tips are revealed for you in the incredible Train Wild Horses course.  If you’re ready to become a World Class Trainer, then you MUST grab this for yourself today, as in right NOW:

Originally posted 2008-06-09 10:25:37. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

Technorati Tags: borse bit training, bridle, bridle training, horse bit, horse bridle

As you can imagine, most horses are less than thrilled about the idea of taking the bit. Would you be excited about the prospect of lodging a piece of metal in your mouth so another person could easily direct the motion of your head?

Therefore, when applying a horse training bit, it’s a good idea to use a commonly known molasses trick. Start by placing some sweet molasses on the horse’s lips and letting him/her get into the moment; most horses will love this.

Next, add some molasses to the horse training bit and work it slowly into the horses mouth. Do this for a while and finally leave the bit in loosely so it doesn’t cause any pain.

This exercise creates a pleasurable experience and causes the horse to associate the bit with molasses. Therefore, he/she will actually look forward to accepting the bit.

Over time, your animal will come to accept the bit without any trouble, and you’ll be able to easily move past this initially awkward phase in your relationship.

Originally posted 2008-05-22 01:19:19. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

Technorati Tags: horse training, horse training bits, start with bit, training, training bits

Snaffle Bits
The snaffle bits are the kind of reining device that is direct. It lies across the tongue of the horse through which your horse is guided directly or reined directly. This kind of bit is primarily used for lateral control of your horse.

Gag Bits
The gag bits are a bit similar with the snaffles except that your horse would lean into the gag bit. This kind of bit is used for racing. Since it is somewhat similar to the snaffles, it is highly possible that through your improper use of the snaffle, you could turn it into a gag and would encourage your horse to run away.

Leverage Bits
The leverage bits are reining devices that are not directly attached to the horses’ mouthpiece. It is connected to the shanks that hang down from your horse’s mouth. By pulling the reins, it causes the bit to be a compound leverage device which applies some pressure to the horse’s jaw at a ratio that is higher than that of the actual pulling force which is applied to the reins by the rider.

Now, horses have different mouth shapes that are why you need to select the right bitting device to use. Just remember that the mouthpiece should be long enough to be able to fit in your horse’s mouth without pinching the lips yet not overly long that it can shift back and forth excessively.

Originally posted 2009-04-09 16:20:53. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

Technorati Tags: bits, horse bit, kinds of bits, start with bit, training bits

Most horses hate shanks and other metal curved bits because of the discomfort and pain such tools cause. And to be honest, there is little need for such barbaric practices in the modern world where we no longer ride horses into battle.

Most knowledgeable horse trainers prefer to use snaffle style horse training bits. A snaffle is essentially a chord style bit fitted with rings on either side to allow for an easy, painless fit into your horse’s mouth.

This is perhaps on of the most crucial steps in developing a proper relationship with your horse. Choosing a horse training bit that respects your animal and minimizes the discomfort will generally create a better, more successful training experience and can prevent injuries to both horse and rider.

Horse training bits that do not fit properly, or that are simply poor in design, can be attributed to the vast majority of issues with an animal’s conduct during training. If your horse is refusing to collect, shaking his/her head, or generally acting up with you in saddle, you may need to revisit your choice of bit.

Originally posted 2008-05-22 07:20:19. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

Technorati Tags: bits, horse training, horse training bits, training, training bits