Do you know why horses kick?
By Horse Guy | July 3, 2009
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We’ve been talking about training horses recently, and I think you’re probably figuring out by now that there is quite a bit to know if you want to become REALLY good at this…
But that’s why I’m here! And today I want to cover a common problem: Why Your Horse Kicks.
All horses will kick when threatended- It’s the primary means of defense given them by nature. That’s not rreally the issue here…what we are talking about are horses that have the tendency to kick with hardly ANY provocation…
Because it has this disposition is no reason for classing it as an outlaw and thinking it cannot be handled. Its natural tendencies will only require more patient and persevering effort to make it as obedient as those in any other type.
See, most horses do not kick on account of a bad disposition, but because their owners were ignorant and REALLY TAUGHT them to kick by poor management in colt training.
If the horse kicks when the hold-back strap breaks and leaves the cross-piece of the shafts strike the hind quarters, it is only an indication that he was not properly educated when a colt.
Kicking because the line gets under the tail is another indication of poor training when a colt.
Would you like to know HOW to avoid these mistakes in training…and correct them if they are already present in YOUR horse?
You can — once you have the inside secrets of Training Wild Horses in your own arsenal. Grab your copy, available by instant download here:
Originally posted 2008-06-06 10:12:23. Republished by Old Post Promoter
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Horse Training: Taking The Lead
By Horse Guy | July 2, 2009
The term lead is used in many horse training situations. The simplest way to define this terms it to say it’s a reference to the overall command you have of your animal.
For instance, you’ll use a lead rope to communicate with the horse about the direction, speed, and nature of motion you want it to take. But let’s be honest: the rope is not leading the horse, you are.
So in philosophical terms, lead really is a measure of your dominance within the relationship. It’s a reference to your leadership in all matters of directing and controlling the horse.
It’s a good idea to initiate lead training indoors, or at least in an area with minimal distraction and noise. This will make it easier for a new horse to focus on your communications.
And probably the first time you bring the horse into the training area, he/she is going to want to check everything out. You can avoid a lot of conflict and distraction by simply allowing your horse a few minutes to investigate the area, and gently assuming a dominant position over a period of a few minutes.
Over time, you will be able to direct the horse anywhere in the arena, adjusting speed and direction as you see fit, and successfully executing stops and starts at will.
Originally posted 2008-05-31 01:27:17. Republished by Old Post Promoter
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Horse Breaking Explained
By Horse Guy | July 1, 2009
Anyone wanting to know the basic method of horse breaking applied in the past can rent a western movie. Watching is about all the method is useful for as today there are far kinder ways in which to break in a horse.
I really do not like to use the term breaking simply as the word breaking, denotes force. Ultimately horse breaking is training of the horse. Training for a work or pleasure horse, has the same basic method of getting a horse to submit to man.
training horses has two main methods, the old and the new. The old technique is still very much in use today, but has been refined and altered along the way. That is to say that in most countries where horse folk are being educated, they no longer hurt the horse.
In the old days one would tie a horse up to a fence for hours until he had no fight left in him and one could then sit in the saddle and not be bucked off. Today thankfully man has learned to work with horses instead of simply dominating them.
The new method of training known as natural horsemanship may not be entirely new, but the trend and following is. Natural horsemanship as against simple horse breaking does not involve the horse submitting to man.
Instead man learns to communicate in the horses own language and becomes the horses leader, like the stallion of a herd. You do not have to be an experienced horse professional of old nor an aspiring natural horsemanship individual to realize that violence is not needed to train a horse. No matter what method of training you follow it always pays to respect the horse.
If you are not a competent horse handler you have no place training a green horse. A green horse is the term used to describe a horse that is unbroken and thus had very little if any training. I say this because a green horse will be bold and challenge you and you could very well be tempted to react with force or violence through fear.
When you are considering training a young horse and you have never done so before, have a knowledgeable trainer with you. Untrained or green horses often cost less than a trained horse and it is for this reason many people are tempted to buy them. Once again if you do not have the skill to train the horse without using violence and force, either have someone help you or send it to a trainer first.
When you take the extra care and attention to train a horse humanely and effectively, you have a horse that is happy to be handled; a horse that can be handled by most people too. That way you ensure a beginning relationship of trust between man and the horse which is essential to get the best performance from your horse.
horse breaking is the start of training a horse to work with man. Today there is certainly no excuse when horse breaking is a cruel act. It makes common sense then to create a long lasting relationship of trust through kindness. It will continually be proven that horses do not need to be driven into submission. How wonderful the feeling is when this big powerful animal actually wants to please us. Horse Guide.
Get information on buying, owning and caring for your horse, learn about horse breaking. Learn about Horse riding safety.
Article Source: Ezine Articles
Originally posted 2008-09-11 21:36:56. Republished by Old Post Promoter
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Horse Training: Breaking vs. Newer Philosophies
By Horse Guy | June 30, 2009
We’ve all seen the western-themed movies where the cowboys are faced with the challenge of “breaking” a wild horse. Technically, the term breaking refers to the conditioning of a horse to accept a human as the dominant side of a relationship.
The word actually derives from the idea of breaking the animal’s spirit, and most evolved horse trainers of today dislike such a notion. The idea that a horse needs to be “broken” leaves a bad taste in the mouths of many modern enthusiasts.
In fact, the more gentle philosophies used in today’s equestrian circles result in a much stronger bond between horse and trainer. And such a relationship ultimately results in less risk of injury, improved training results, and more overall enjoyment for all involved.
Certainly more assertive techniques can come into play with wild horses, and when an animal displays aggression. The term gentle need not indicate a total loss of the dominance concept; in fact the natural order of relationship between human and animal requires some level of assertion.
It may well be a simple matter of semantics, but the term breaking is out of favor in most circles. Many legitimate horse trainers today are strong advocates of the deeper philosophical implications involved in the entire process of building trust, developing a relationship, and establishing respect as a matter of process.
Originally posted 2008-05-26 01:23:08. Republished by Old Post Promoter
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Wild Horse Training Tutorial
By Horse Guy | June 8, 2009
Wild Horse Training is not as easy as we imagined it to be. But there are easy ways as to how wild horse training is to be done.
Firstly, there is the so-called “In-hand” Wild Horse Training. In- hand training of wild horses is the ability to teach the horse the basics. By using this training, the trainer should prepare the horse. In- hand training is also the ability to get the horse in the best possible and trained manner from one point to another. In-hand training is the basic training and the first step of training the horse to take the second step and that is the riding.
Secondly, to ride a horse one should need these things that are necessarily helpful to accustom the horse with the basics: halter, lead, bridle, obstacles like tarp, platform, and plywood, concrete, plastic and or poles in the ground. Some obstacles that can also be used are the flat and a tractor.
Thirdly, goals are important in wild horse training. First goal is the First Set of Basics. This type of training will enable the horse to be taught in many ways. The in-hand training is the first step training that a horse should be taught. The second goal is that the way on how you can smoothly halter the horse. This would most likely means without bucking, bolting, and biting. Third goal is the skill of safely turning the horse loose. In this, one will not have to deal with the wheeling or the rearing. These are the stepping stones to move on the bigger and better preparation- the moving forward.
This is the next step of goals- Moving Forward. This step is much difficult. This will require a great deal of time and patience. Moving forward is where the walking and some of the maneuvers, trotting, stopping and turning left or right back come into play.
Some horses get spooked sometimes when the ground levels are changed or other elements are presented. So starting with obstacles is very much helpful if you want to easily lead your horse with a bridle or halter and this would take away from the others without having troubles.
When this is mastered, another step would be helpful again by taking them the past obstacles such as the fences, tractors or the flags.
Wild horse training needs an individual skill and valuable knowledge of the trainer and it also needs extensive groundwork for an easy key to success under the saddle and one should always remember that every encounter of the horse includes training.
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Teach your horse some cool tricks
By Horse Guy | April 9, 2009
One of the coolest things you can teach your horse, and a great way to develop an incredibly deep bond with your animal is by teaching them a few easy tricks.
The most essential thing necessary for the trainer to possess, in teaching tricks, is an unlimited amount of patience or self-control.
You cannot teach your horse a trick in a single hour or even in a single day; but only by persistent efforts on your part. You must repeat one time after another until the trick becomes a habit.
In fact, the teaching of tricks is merely the forming of unusual habits.
But here’s a warning: Never try to teach a horse tricks until he thoroughly understands the “Confidence Lesson” from book 1 of Train Wild Horses!
Give the first lessons in an enclosure and at the same spot each time, as the horse will grasp your idea much quicker. When he will perform his trick perfectly at this place, then take him to other places.
Types No. 2 and No. 4 are not suitable for a horse to be taught tricks as they are inclined to be willful, stubborn or treacherous and ill natured. A combination of types No. 1 and No. 3 makes the best trick horse.
No. 1 gives you docility, kindness and tractability, while type No. 3 adds the nerve and ambitious temperament, which enables you to exhibit a horse with nerve and fire, and still he is obedient to your commands.
Always remember that the horse cannot reason from cause to effect and can only grasp your meaning by having an action associated with the command, and a lesson must be repeated until firmly fixed.
Never attempt to teach a horse but one thing at a time, and have this point taught PERFECTLY before beginning another.
If you’re ready to become an unbeatable training force, and discover some of the incredibly cool tricks you can teach YOUR horse, then…
Grab your copy of the powerful Train Wild Horses Course today:
Originally posted 2008-06-11 10:41:06. Republished by Old Post Promoter
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Kinds Of Bits
By Horse Guy | April 9, 2009
There are three different kinds of bitting devices for your horse; namely, gag bits, snaffles and leverage bits. Right now, let us discuss and differentiate the three kinds of bitting devices.
Snaffle Bits
The snaffle bits are the kind of reining device that is direct. It lies across the tongue of the horse through which your horse is guided directly or reined directly. This kind of bit is primarily used for lateral control of your horse.
Gag Bits
The gag bits are a bit similar with the snaffles except that your horse would lean into the gag bit. This kind of bit is used for racing. Since it is somewhat similar to the snaffles, it is highly possible that through your improper use of the snaffle, you could turn it into a gag and would encourage your horse to run away.
Leverage Bits
The leverage bits are reining devices that are not directly attached to the horses’ mouthpiece. It is connected to the shanks that hang down from your horse’s mouth. By pulling the reins, it causes the bit to be a compound leverage device which applies some pressure to the horse’s jaw at a ratio that is higher than that of the actual pulling force which is applied to the reins by the rider.
Now, horses have different mouth shapes that are why you need to select the right bitting device to use. Just remember that the mouthpiece should be long enough to be able to fit in your horse’s mouth without pinching the lips yet not overly long that it can shift back and forth excessively.
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Reasons Why Your Horse Bobs Or Toss His Head
By Horse Guy | March 19, 2009
Horses sometimes toss or bob their head while you are riding on them. Some can range from simple bobbing to dangerous head throwing and shaking. Yet, why does your horse do this? There are a number of reasons why this is done so.
Biting
Check your horse and the bit. If the bit does not fit comfortably in your horse’s mouth, there is a tendency that your horse will likely toss or bob his head. Check if the bit is too thick, too narrow and pinching or too much of a mouthful. Also try to see if the curb strap is too loose that it allows a curb bit to rotate too far from in your horse’s mouth. Check if it is too high or the opposite. Also, check if the bit is too harsh and your horse is trying to avoid it.
Insects
Sometimes your horse bobs or tosses his head because insects are biting his ears. He gets frantic about this. If this is so, try to put ear covers and insect repellent for your horse.
Dental
At times the teeth of your horse wear unevenly and can have an uncomfortable hooks and edges to your horse. Because of this, your horse would tend to scrape his cheeks or tongue while he chews. That is why as frequently as every half a year, have your horse’s teeth checked as the teeth problems can make problems in holding a bit.
Improper Rein Aids
Some horses toss or bob their heads in response to the rider’s mishandling of the reins. To be able to have proper rein, you must at first know how to have sympathetic and light hands that follow the movement of the horse while you re maintaining enough contact to control your horse. If you still do not know how, try to ask some professional help.
Saddle Fit
Make sure that the saddle really fits the horse as an improperly fitted saddle could pinch the back of your horse.
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Teaching A Horse To Hug
By Horse Guy | March 19, 2009
A hug is one of the best comforters when you are down. It uplifts your mood knowing that someone sympathize your emotions. No one is exempted in receiving or giving a hug to a friend in need. That being said, if you do not have any company and badly needs a hug, why not ask it from your horse? Yes, a horse can give hugs too! They can give you this with his neck and head of course!
In training your horse on giving hugs, you will need the following:
1. Clicker or your attention so you can reward the horse or praise it at the moment he does the right thing.
2. Small treats you have. This may come into varieties depending on what the horse prefers. You can give carrot slices, horse crunch, sugar cubes and the likes.
3. A bag for the small treats you have.
4. Spare at least 10 minutes of your time a few times a day.
5. Most especially, your horse that is in a loose stall, a round pen, or in a quite stable with a lead rope and halter. Do not tie the horse or you will just restrict his head movements. And you should not do that since a horse hugs using his head and neck, remember?
If you have all things set, you are now ready for the steps to follow in training your horse.
Now, if your horse has already undergone target training, just stand with your back to the horse, hold the target over on shoulder and then move it down towards the opposite hip. Then, encourage your horse to move a step forward and reach downwards over your shoulder to be able to touch the target. With this, you may need to back up a bit and let yourself position to make it easier for your horse at first.
Also, alternately, you can use the treat you have in one hand and as the horse nuzzles the hand with your treat, bring your hand down towards the opposite hip.
If the horse is in the position you want the horse to be in, click and then treat. Sooner or later, the horse will learn it and eventually you will not need the treat each time you need a hug.
Just always put in mind to keep your training sessions as short as possible like 10 minutes or so at a time. After the 10 minutes or so, go for another task like cleaning the stall or doing another chore before going back to the horse and do the training again.
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6 Steps On Putting Bridle To Your Horse
By Horse Guy | March 19, 2009
Horses need to have a bridle. To help you with this, here are the steps in putting a bridle to your horse.
1. Start first with the halter on the horse and safely tied. You may have the horse in tide with a lead rope or cross-ties with a panic snap or a quick release knot.
2. Undo the halter on the horse, then slide the noseband down over the horse’s nose and then slip the crown back up just over your horse’s ears. In this way, your horse will be secured will putting the bridle on. After which, stand beside the horse’s neck, facing forward with your left hand holding the bridle and then, slip the reins up over your horse’s neck.
3. After slipping the reins up over your horse’s neck, hold the bridle up over your horse’s nose with your right hand. Using your left fingers, you hold the bit against his mouth and then insert your thumb into the space that is between the front and the back teeth. If your horse is a bit resistant, wiggle your thumb to encourage the horse to open his mouth wider. Then, slide the bit in and also lift the bridle higher using your left hand so that your horse can not spit the bit back out. Yet, be careful not to knock the bit on your horse’s teeth.
4. After which, grasp the crown of your horse’s bridle using your left hand and with your right hand gently bend your horse’s right ear forward and then slip it under the crown.
5. Then, switch your grasp of the horse’s bridle again to you right hand and using your left hand; gently slip the left ear under the crown. However, do not try to pull the bride too high, thus pulling on your horse’s mouth.
6. Afterwards, do up the throatlatch of the horse’s bridle. To help your horse flex his neck properly, do not do the throatlatch up tightly; just leave about 4 inches slack. To make sure it is not done tightly, your hands should be able to slip, palm flat down, between the strap and to your horse’s jaws.
However, if you are using a figure-eight, garkle noseband or flash, leave at least 2 fingers width between the lower jaw of your horse and the strap. And if you are using a curb bit for your horse, you will most likely need to do up the curb chain or strap and leave the width of your two fingers between the chain and the lower jaw of your horse. Just remember that leaving the chain too tight or loose can make the action of your horse’s bit or the chain more severe. Also, if you are using a bit that has a port in it, the bit could rotate up and hurt the top of your horse’s mouth. So, be careful on this one.
After doing all of these, slip the halter off your horse, tidy the mane and forelock and you are now ready to go.
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